The secret to a budget-friendly bathroom refresh is separating the parts from the labor.

Buy the Fixtures Yourself: Don't let a contractor "supply" the toilet. They often add a 20% markup. Buy your preferred model at a home improvement store and have it ready in the bathroom.

Look for "Handyman Registration": In many areas (like New Jersey), a worker doesn't need a Plumbing License for a simple swap, but they do need a Home Improvement Contractor (HIC) registration. This ensures they are registered with the state and carry liability insurance.

Bundle Your Tasks: Handymen usually have a 2-hour minimum. If the toilet only takes 45 minutes, have a list of other small things ready—like fixing a squeaky door or hanging a mirror—to get your money's worth.

[Image showing the difference between a one-piece and two-piece toilet installation]

Staying Safe: The "Must-Haves" Before Hiring
Even if you aren't hiring a "diploma-carrying" master plumber, never skip these three protections:

Specific Reviews: Don't just look at their "5 stars." Read the comments for keywords like "installed my toilet" or "bathroom fixtures" to ensure they’ve done this exact job before.

Flat-Rate Agreement: For a simple toilet swap, don't agree to an open-ended hourly rate. Ask: "What is your flat price to remove the old toilet and install the new one, including the wax ring?"


The "Buy-It-Yourself" Checklist: How to Save 20% on Your Bathroom Refresh
If you want to save money on your bathroom upgrade, the secret is simple: Buy the parts yourself. When a contractor "supplies" the materials, they often add a 20-30% markup for the time spent going to the store.

By having these items ready before your independent worker arrives, you ensure the job stays at a flat labor rate and you get exactly the style you want.

1. The Toilet Essentials
Don't just buy the box and assume everything is inside. Most toilets require a few extra "connection" pieces that are sold separately.

The Toilet (Bowl & Tank): * Pro-Tip: Measure your "Rough-In" before you go. This is the distance from the wall (not the baseboard) to the center of the bolts holding your current toilet down. Most homes are 12 inches, but older homes might be 10 or 14 inches.

Wax Ring or Wax-Free Gasket: This is the seal between the toilet and the floor.

Money-Saving Strategy: Spend the extra $5 on an "Extra Thick" wax ring or a rubber "Wax-Free" gasket. It prevents leaks much better than the cheap ones that come in the box.

Braided Stainless Steel Supply Line: This is the flexible hose that connects the wall valve to the toilet. Never reuse your old one; they are prone to bursting after being disconnected.

Closet Bolts (T-Bolts): These are the brass bolts that secure the toilet to the floor. Get a "No-Cut" version so your worker doesn't have to use a hacksaw.

Toilet Seat: Many high-end toilets actually do not include the seat. Check the box!

2. The Faucet & Sink Swap
If you are also refreshing the vanity or sink, grab these items to avoid a second trip to the store:

The Faucet Set: Ensure the "hole spacing" matches your sink (e.g., 4-inch centerset or 8-inch widespread).

Faucet Supply Lines: You will need two of these (one for Hot, one for Cold). Match the length to the distance from your wall valve to the faucet.

Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Sealant: A small tube of 100% silicone (Clear or White) is essential for sealing the base of the toilet and the sink drain to prevent water damage.

3. The "While You’re At It" Bundle
Since you are paying for a worker's "minimum call-out fee" (usually 2 hours), make sure you have these small upgrades ready:

New Matching Toilet Paper Holder & Towel Bar

A High-Pressure Showerhead (These take 5 minutes to swap but change the whole experience).